Varietal Juice — Reveries

A few vintners are now making fruit juice from their grapes, reports Natalie Ermann Russell in USA Today (1/4/12). At the Oakencroft Farm vineyard in Charlottesville, Virginia, Phillip Ponton and Warren McLellan grow Chambourcin, Seyval Blanc and Traminette grapes that they formerly used for wine, but now turn into juice. "We grow vinifera grapes just the same as we did when we were using them for wines," says Phillip. "Everything is hand-done — pruning, picking, monitoring."

The result are juices that, like wine, reflect each year’s harvest, bringing "nuances of flavor, depending on rain, soil conditions and sunshine." Phillip and Warren pursued juicemaking as a way to differentiate itself with a niche product, although others, such as Navarro Vineyards in California, have been at it for 30 years now. Originally, these varietal juices were meant for kids, but lately they’ve gained greater popularity as part of the trend toward artisanal and local food. However, using wine grapes for juice can be tricky.

"Wine grape juice really wants to ferment," says Al Curtice of Draper Valley Vineyard in Selma, Oregon, which makes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon among other varietals — as juices only. "The reds are rich and robust, while the whites are crisp and light," says Al. "Pairing our juices with food can be done in much the same way its done with wines." He also recommends the juices for cooking and says they make a dandy spritzer. "There is a demand for an elegant, alcohol-free beverage, but not much selection, " says Al. "So we decided to share what we enjoy so much."