Jane Garvey's Monthly Dozen: Southern Hemisphere Wines ...

2010 Dornier Wines Cocoa Hill Chenin Blanc Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 92 Tasting Note: When the French Huguenots fled France for other corners of the planet, South Africa was one of their destinations. And as we all know, whither the French, thither the vine. Among the vines that made it to South Africa was Chenin Blanc, today that country’s most widely planted grape variety of all types, red or white. A few years ago, vintners were ripping it out, but now, wisely, they’re beginning to claim it and to make it better. This is a fine example, a medium- full-bodied dry white wine (a touch of residual sugar–.25–notwithstanding) showing a medium gold color with greenish highlights. Intense aromas of tropical fruits assemble carambola (star fruit), guava and exotic melon while on the palate those fruit characters join a custard note. Balanced and showing adequate acidity against the fruit, this wine will keep for another year or two if well cellared. Serve at cool temperatures, about 55F/13C in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Nice value and good food wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Fried oysters or calamari with lemon aïoli; raw or roasted oysters with fresh lemon; Asian preparations with seafood, chicken or pork; pollock or similar mild fish rolled in cornmeal or fine polenta and fried, tartar sauce; grilled scallops with rémoulade; Thai salmon with mild red curry; Vidalia onion stuffed with greens and baked; leek or onion tart; mild creamy cheeses (not goat). I rather liked it with baba ganoush from Mediterranean Bakery in Chamblee and smoked trout pâté. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Company $14.00   2010 Cousino-Macul Sauvignon Gris Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 90 Tasting Note: On a visit some years back to Cousiño Macul near downtown Santiago, Chile, this then mysterious-to-me varietal was introduced to the assembled writers. I immediately said: When do we get this wine? It took a while, but I’m delighted it’s been in this market a while. Originating in Graves in Bordeaux and arriving in Chile in the 19th century, this white wine grape could easily become Chile’s icon white wine. Medium-bodied with a greenish yellow color, the wine is less aromatic than its sister Sauvignon Blanc but no less appealing nonetheless. You’ll sense aromas of citrus, flowers, pear, white peach, and enjoy those as much as you will the flavors that follow: Citrus zest (grapefruit); a bit of sweet white peach, a good acid backbone, and delicious tropical fruit (banana) at the end. What a long, clean finish!. Even New Zealand is getting into the act. Don’t let it get too cold; 55F/13C is plenty cold enough. Then you get all the flavors. Suggested Food Pairings: Fish, fish and more fish. Fin or shell, doesn’t matter, although I don’t care for it with oily fish. Grilled scallops; crab cakes with tartar sauce; fresh cod with olive oil and fresh minced herbs; pollock or similar mild white fish dredged in crushed pistachios and pan-sautéed; calamari with lemon aïoli; roasted root vegetables daubed with goat cheese; pasta with basil and lemon; Vidalia onion stuffed with sweet potato purée and baked (really yummy); baked chicken breast with lemon and fresh herbs; mild cheeses (Sweet Grass Dairy’s Thomasville Tome). Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $15.00   2010 Alma de los Andes Torrontes Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 92 Tasting Note: Torrontés is Argentina’s iconic white wine grape, possibly the result of Muscat de Alejandría mixing it up with the Criolla grape brought by Spanish missionaries. This example is the Torrontés Riojano, one of three clones of the grape and the one most often found in Argentina. As of 2008, it was that country’s most widely planted white variety, mostly in La Rioja and Salta provinces in the north. In fact, in La Rioja, it’s the single most widely planted variety of all grapes, whether red or white. This example shows a medium-deep yellow color, and presents aromas that remind one both of Muscat and of Gewürztraminer, with deep floral characters, lichi nut and spice. On the palate, ripe exoptic fruit characters capture touches of pineapple, fleshy stone fruit; lichi nut and quince. A portion of the wine underwent malolacatic fermentation to take the acidity down a bit and soften the wine; but there’s plenty left for balance. No oak. Voluptuous and exotic are two words that come to mind. Serve lightly chilled to cool, about 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled fish with mango salsa; Thai dishes (Thai eggplant, smoked trout pâté; fried catfish and galangal root slivers; Thai curries with seafood–but not oily fish–or chicken, and not too hot; pork with subtle ginger; pumpkin or butternut squash ravioli with brown butter and toasted pine nuts; Thai chicken with peanuts; green papaya/green mango salad; creamy, rich cheeses. Distributors: Global Wines Georgia $18.00   2009 Man O War Pinot Gris Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 92 Tasting Note: The viticulturally rich islands that lie offshore of Auckland, NZ, (North Island) include Waiheke Island, which lies at the mouth of Waitemata Harbour, one of Auckland’s two harbors. This is a rolling hilly landscape with plenty of vineyards (and bed-and-breakfast inns, restaurants, art and antiques emporia, and miles of beaches dotted with contemporary sculpture). On the island’s eastern end is Man o” War Vineyards, where they have planted grapes for the past 20 years. But other islands nearby also hold their vineyards. This example is grown in Ponui Island, which lies in the Hauraki Gulf, a wide inlet of water east of Auckland and southeast of Waiheke Island. The medium-bodied white wine shows a medium yellow color and aromas that suggest fleshy stone fruit, toasted nuts, and stony minerals. On the palate, fresh clean pure fruit flavors are supported by a bit of residual sugar and good acidity. A slight hint of pink grapefruit closes the experience. Although part of the wine was fermented in new oak, the wine doesn’t show excessive oak characters. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C,and use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: New Zealand Pinot Gris will handle some spice but not mouth-searing examples. Chinese cold sesame noodles; Chinese fish dishes such as fish and greens; Thai catfish with Thai eggplant and glangal root; vegetable moo shu; curried seafood salad; crabmeat filled Korean pancake. Not good with oily fish, such as salmon. Distributors: Northeast Wholesale $19.00   2010 Tora Bay Sauvignon Blanc Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 92 Tasting Note: Sauvignon Blanc has much to say all across the Southern Hemisphere, but especially in South Africa (Mulderbosch), Australia and New Zealand. Although New Zealand does many wines very well, among white wines, its icon grape is certainly Sauvignon Blanc. Some consumers will screw up their noses recalling the overt grapefruit character that defined many of them. But more balanced approaches to the grape are coming up these days, such as this Tora Bay Sauvignon Blanc from Martinborough, on the southeastern tip of New Zealand’s North Island. Instead of grapefruit, this full-bodied dry white wine with a bright, medium pale yellow color exhibits aromas of passion fruit and white melon. This gathers steam and a touch of grapefruit as it presents the palate with excellent fruit and a fine acid core. Alcohol is 13.5%, but there’s no heat in the finish, especially if carefully served chilled, about 5-55F/10-13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Shumai with Oriental dipping sauce; vegetable sushi roll (particularly good); Korean seafood pancake; baked flounder stuffed with crabmeat; baked oyster gratin; grilled scallops with tartar sauce; raw or steamed oysters with lemon; Caesar salad with grilled chicken; grilled sardines (Buford Hwy. Farmers Market) with lemon and salt; goat cheese (CalyRoad Creamery in Sandy Springs). Distributors: ConVinum/Eagle Rock $19.00   2009 Logan Apple Tree Flat Rose Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 88 Tasting Note: Apple Tree Flat is a wine district in Australia that lies southeast of Mudgee, a region in south New South Wales (itself in northern Australia). Think of Sydney on the country’s eastern coast and go north and west Grapes for this wine come from vines that are relatively young, 6-10 years of age, and include Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Franc. This wine is all about fruit, and the aromas showcase crisp red apple, red fruits (cherry, raspberry) and red fruit candy. On the palate, a hint of rhubarb accompanies the wine. A brown spice note finishes the experience. The texture is silky and the finish dry, although the fruit sweetness never leaves the palate. Serve moderately chilled about 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled shrimp with tomato dipping sauce; barbecued shrimp or chicken; grilled, smoked or roast chicken, grilled quail or Cornish hen; grilled ham steak brushed with muscadine jam; slightly spicy wings. Distributors: ConVinum/Eagle Rock $22.00   2010 Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 94 Tasting Note: Ok, I confess to being a real fan of Central Otago Pinot Noir. This region of New Zealand’s South Island has become synonymous with the Burgundian grape. Yet many consuem3ers, indeed some folks in the business, don’t associate Pinot Noir with New Zealand. Well, now’s the time. What’s singularly happy about New Zealand Pinot Noir and what makes it distinctive is its savory character, its restrained yet clear, clean fruit. The wine is still a little tight, so it should be decanted about 30 minutes before being served. Aromas are hinting at crushed dried herbs while red fruit characters struggle to emerge, notably raspberry. On the palate, one savors the same dried herb character while fruit takes a background role. The finish is long, long and longer, with hints of pepper. After a while a bit of vanilla joins the pack. There’s none of the earthy composty character one would hope for in a Burgundy. This is a different, distinctive and quite remarkable other animal. Yet clearly Pinot Noir. Felton Road’s winemaker, Blair Walter, also does beautiful Riesling, also from Central Otago, which I wish heartily we might have just once in this market. It’s a long way to Felton Road. Serve cool, about 62-65F;17-18C in a balloon-shaped Burgundy glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Mushroom pastries; wood-smoked beef ribs or pork tenderloin; roasted duck, including Chinese duck; dim sum; lamb; roast chicken; grilled quail or Cornish hen; grilled fish (swordfish; salmon; tuna and even roasted sea bass); firm aged cheeses; dark chocolate. What a wine! Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Foods/National Distributing $50.00   2008 Durigutti Bonarda Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 92 Tasting Note: Argentina’s Bonarda used to be its most widely planted grape before being eclipsed by Malbec, but it’s still solidly in the number two spot. And while many consumers are just now getting their arms–and palates–around Malbec, Bonarda trails in familiarity. Yet there are several producers’ versions in this market. This example is one of the tastiest I’ve come across. From Pablo and Hector Durigutti, the wine is 100% Bonarda. Controversy still surrounds exactly what that grape is, but it almost surely isn’t the Bonarda of the Italian Piedmont. Like this example, Bonarda shows a dark, deep purple red color. Lifted aromas of blueberry and fresh dark fruits greet the nose along with a hint of brown spices. The palate shows rich, complex fresh dark fruits, with a suggestion of blueberry and plum, some firm but not aggressive tannins, and a long, clean finish. Flavors are lush and deep, and there’s a fair acid backbone as well. These vines date to 1955, a fact that at least partially accounts for the wine’s intense flavors. Serve at about 63F/16C. Use a large-bowled tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Game; smoked beef ribs; empanadas filled with beef; roast duck; grilled Cornish hen; grilled lamb steak; dark chocolate-covered fruit. Distributors: Artisan Vines $15.00   2009 Glaetzer Wallace Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 92 Tasting Note: Australia has been famous for big, bold, high alcohol, colossal wines that were tough to pair with food. Perhaps that’s part of what has damaged the genre with the American consumer. So distributors have been reluctant to take on much from Australia as it just hasn’t been selling. But this wine shows that perhaps Australian winemakers are beginning to turn their backs on those over-the-toppers in favor of making more elegant, more refined wines. Composed of Shiraz (75%) and Grenache (25%), all coming from the Ebenezer region of Barossa Valley, north of Adelaide. Vines range in age from 60-80 years old, so what little fruit you get is most intense. The wine is full-bodied and deeply colored, showing opaque dark red tones. Initial aromas of meat signal the presence of Shiraz. But the aromas evolve, soon developiong hints of herb that serve as grace notes alongside ample, rich dark fruit. Plum, blackberry and black currant contrive a rich, mouth-filling experience. Fine tannins and good acidity provide the needed framework for the rich fruit. Aromatic baking spices add to the complexity. This is one of the most enjoyable red wines I’ve come across in Australia in a long time. Just delicious. Keep it cool, about 62-64F/16-17C for maximum pleasure. Suggested Food Pairings: All types of grilled and smoked meats; stews; braised beef dishes; meat pies; mild curries with meat; game; roasted meats; duck with figs; dark chocolate. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $15.00   2007 Vina Falernia Carmenere Reserva Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 92 Tasting Note: Chile’s Elqui Valley lies 323 miles north of Santiago, the country’s capital, and is home to Chile’s northernmost wine estate, Viña Falernia. But the grapes for this wine come from the Limarí Valley, the next region south of Elqui. The fog coming off the Pacific Ocean at night blankets the valley, then withdraws as the sun rises. Semi-arid, with less than four inches of rainfall per year, the valley has seen grape planting since the 16th century. Typical of Carmenere, the wine is full-bodied and very deeply colored, showing an opaque purple red. The grapes were picked late–June–and partially dried, a process that reveals itself in the sweet fruit characters showing in the aromas and in the dark, well-extracted color. On the palate, dark chocolate and spice dominate. Silky tannins evoke ripe fruit. The alcohol is high, 15%, and there is a sensation of heat at the back of the throat. Serve at cool low-to-mid 60sF/16C temperatures. Suggested Food Pairings: Casseroles or pies with meat; dishes with corn (Chile’s pastel de choclo–a corn-based meat pie); curried lamb (but not hot); mole poblano (the chocolate-based mole); smoked beef or lamb; dark chocolate. This sounds crazy, but it’s wicked wonderful with homemade style chocolate chip cookies. Distributors: Unique World Wines $16.00   2008 Bodegas Antigal Uno Malbec Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 89 Tasting Note: Once a popular Bordeaux variety, Malbec is important in Cahors, east of Bordeaux, where it’s called Côt, and in Argentina. It’s beginning to be grown in the U.S. as well, from Idaho to Virginia and north Georgia. But Argentine is it’s home away from home. Aged in French and American oak, this big full-bodied red wine, produced in Mendoza in Argentina’s wild west, shows an inky dark rose-rimmed purple color. Aromas present ripe berries with a touch of blueberry, while the palate offers dark berry fruit, plums and cocoa notes. Big but not bruising, the wine offers supple tannins that supply structure, and decent acidity (about .55) helps carry the finish. Alcohol is a mite high, so the wine does show some heat in the close, but rich foods will temper this. Serve cool, about 62-65F/16-17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Cured meats and fresh, grilled sausages; pâtés and terrines; meat pies; game; roast duck; roast pork loin with black olives and capers; grilled lamb steak; barbecued pork; meat or vegetable stews; aged cheeses; dark chocolate. Distributors: Georgia Crown $15.00   2007 Vina Koyle Royale Syrah Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 90 Tasting Note: Syrah is important all across the Southern Hemisphere, but we often forget to think about it in South America. Chile’s Undurraga family is known for its long history in Chilean winemaking. This associated brand from the Colchagua Valley focuses on red wines, including besides Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chile’s icon Carménère. This Syrah (there also is a Reserva) is a big red wine (14.5% alcohol), and it‘s a blend of 85% Syrah, with Malbec (11%) and Carménère (4%). The winery has also released 2008 and 2009 vintages, but 2007 is in the Atlanta market. That gives us the opportunity to taste a wine that has a bit of maturity, but that still needs decanting to achieve maximum enjoyment. Opaque, black purple red in color, the wine exhibits aromas of cured meats, dried herb and spiice, especially black pepper Silky fruit-derived tannins frame a panoply of flavors, from dark fruits to dried herb and a touch of cocoa powder. The finish is long and satisfying. The high alcohol barely shows, just a trace. Aged in oak for 18 months, the wine is unfiltered (which I like). Serve in a large glass that’s wide at the bottom and tapered at the top. Cellaring at cool temperatures should extend its life another half dozen years. Decanting many hours prior to serving is critical. Due in this market in mid March. Temperature 63-65F/16-17C. Suggested Food Pairings: The Spotted Trotter sorghum and black pepper salami; French-style pepper steak; steak Diane; grilled lamb sirloin steak (cut from the leg at about 1 ½ to 2 inches thick); furred (wild boar; venison) and feathered game (duck); lamb stews; medium dark chocolate. Distributors: National Distributing Company $30.00   2009 Rooiberg Pinotage Review Date – 3/1/2012   Score – 90 Tasting Note: Rooiberg, South Africa’s first cooperative winery, is located in Robertson, along the Breede River. Pinotage, a crossing of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, is South Africa’s icon red wine grape, buit it had acquired a negative reputation for a medicinal character that today’s winemaking has sought assiduously to ovoid. While some winemakers today still refuse to work with it, others have embraced it. In this example, there’s not a trace of that medicinal or “band-aid” character. Instead, this medium-bodied red wine shows a dark garnet red color with aromas of dark cherries and flavors that embrace mulberry, dark cherry and brown spices. Very tame tannins lend a tasty frame to these flavors, and the finish is clean, long and full of fruit. Best served cool, about 60F/15C. Due in Atlanta in mid March. Suggested Food Pairings: Salamis, grilled sausages (boerewors); grilled meats; aromatic beef or lamb stews; butter chicken; roasted or grilled Cornish hen or quail; mild curries; roti (Malaysian pancakes filled with curried meats); roasted vegetables; mild blue cheeses (Nature’s Harmony, “Elberton Blue,” from Georgia). Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $30.00