Who are they? Come on now fellas Google them if you have to. But these two grapes in California certainly could be described as those two bitches. Except maybe for at least one of them. Let’s start with Carignane. I don’t know about you but when I have made Zinfandel from inferior Central Valley Grapes It needed all the help that was available. Yes we needed the Alicante and we field blended it since there was no reason not to. Heck we made it every year without fail. Don’t think you could use the conventional wisdom of Wine Press suggesting you use Petite Syrah. It sucked worse. Like Bread, a staple in our cellars was Zinfandel and traditionally it was the first to arrive and the first ferment of every season. But I learned at the very beginning of my winemaking experience that a portion of Carignane in addition to the Allicante added a new dimension and complexity to the end result. And we needed everything we could get. I was sold early on. As much as the experts of the era would say a simple Zinfandel /Allicante mix never could equal the wines that had the Carignane in it. Don’t ask me why.
I remember asking my then employer and supplier of grapes if he could obtain the Caringane since the Zinfandel and the Allicante were being delivered. It seemed that Colavita the supplier was not sending Carignane as he had done in the past. A call to him, at my urging, by my employer (twist my arm and I will tell you who this was) was told that the Mixed Blacks, traditionally thought to have Zinfandel, Carignane and Allicante mixed in every box were actually Ninety Percent Carignane. Problem solved but so much for truth in labeling. (I can’t help from laughing at Wineman2008’s defense of Colavita. 2008 you still smell of milk) Nevertheless I admit to coveting the Jug Wine Grape as it has been called for years. By the way this practice was confirmed by another supplier of grapes in a phone call with Colavita in my presence years later. So please as an aside don’t tell me about the quality of Colavita Northern Special which are about as far South as you can get. (I avoided his booth at the Eastern Winery Exposition for fear of well, letting him have it, I decided to be nice and avoid the sure to be confrontation. I am sure he would have felt safe in the shadow of the BIG BOOTH DUDE anyway. LOL. (Twist my arm and I will reveal all, I am weak)
Then when meeting Frank Musto and the M&M Grape Company offerings in 2005 there were actually choices from Lodi. Clement Hills Red Dirt Zinfandel was one. We made a host of the Lodi Zins up to 2008. In 2007 we had the opportunity to get Mendocino Zinfandel. You cannot imagine the excitement at the thought of actually fermenting a 100% Zinfandel. But it was not to happen as the rain spoiled the possibility. Fred the Bulldog Bonnano can wear some serious shirts but he couldn’t hold back the rain. So we arrived at 2008 with the dream of making a North Coast Zinfandel in the hope of a Zinfandel that a Seghesio would be proud. Only one member did that year from Mendocino. Albany Cellar Rat.
Just in time and burnt without any 2007 Zin in barrels, Lanza steps up to the plate. Who is Lanza? We had a little preview with some Cabernet Sauvignon Frank Musto provided to us. But for 2008 the collaboration between Ron Lanza and Frank Musto presented to us not just one Zinfandel but a choice of Zinfandels from Susun. To put icing on the cake a 75 year old Carignane was also offered. Some habits die hard. For me there was no question that if there was 75 year old Carignane available it was going in my field blend come hell or high water. But the change was no Allicante in the blend just a tad of Petite Syrah like Seghesio would admit to adding in Steve Heimoff‘s book “New Classic Winemakers of California”. Medals after 6 months everywhere!
Since that vintage getting that Old Vine Carignane has not been possible to obtain. It seems that this vineyard is dry farmed and with heat spikes it never makes it. I often tell Ron how much I want this grape but he reminds me that it has not been harvested since 2008. Cinderella or Step Sister? I want it in 2012. Get in line boys. But truthfully the Lanza Zinfandel is so good the necessity of having the Carignane is less necessary. Medals to prove it but old habits die hard.
Not that I grow grapes but it seems I am not the only one that has an appreciation for the skanky step sister. There is a new interest in this grape all over California. Maybe we could chip in and get Ron a watering hose for the Siebe Ranch Vineyard Carignane. Oh Yea and remember the same Vineyard as a kick ass 75 year old vine Zinfandel.
Next up the Ugly Sister Anastasia Grenache. Now if you have been around a long time you have to ask yourself why the old Zips would even bother making this varietal from Central Valley. But they did and it was terrible. But in reality Grenache Noir is the mainstay of many Rhone and Roussillon and Languedoc wines. Where is the Grenache Noir in California? I want it it if exists.
Well surprise surprise! Old Vine Grenache Noir discovered by Frank Musto and Burton Castamagna of Delta Packing found! In the very same vineyard as the 140 year old Grand Pare Zinfandel. I have to have it. I long to make a real GSM in the Languedoc tradition. This could be the ticket. Again due to unforeseen circumstances for the past two years we have not been able to get these grapes. We did however were supplied with a very nice Grenache Noir by M&M from Paso Robles. I have a lot of hope for this wine as it already shows some very nice character.
Then out of the blue I discover I am not the only one with an interest in this Step Sister. Click here And they talk of blends on Wine Press How about getting real first?
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